![]() A bit like Paul Smith shortly beforehand, Weston was looking at large-volumed tailoring shapes from the early ’80s. This was Weston’s second full show for the car accessory brand turned tobacco titan turned luxury goods specialist-along with Jimmy Choo and Ralph & Russo one of only three bona fide luxury fashion companies founded in London-and it felt much more authored and assertive than last season. Vintage graphics were blown up on the attractive bags. Along with the first look’s blue blazer-such a defining-ly Dunhill piece-Mark Weston also used vintage Dunhill lighters clad in marble as the inspiration for the attractively patterned green nylon parkas. This company’s recent fashion-incarnation insistence on denial of its tobacco-fumed history is stupid: today came a hint of a more adult position. Apart from that, what I really loved about this Dunhill show were the around-the-neck Rollagas lighter holders worn by at least one model on-runway and in great evidence backstage. Great as this gig is, the last show of a season always feels end-of-school amazing. ![]()
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